How to See Breathtaking Tails and Trails at Caprock Canyon State Park

Weekends are short! You don’t always have time to head to the faraway mountains or distant forests to find adventure. Happily, state parks offer adventure just a short drive away. And, yes, these places can be enjoyed in less than 2 days! 

State parks are often less traveled than national parks. So, you can have a wild experience without the crowds. On a whim and in need of a break, my family and I decided we needed a quick overnighter camping trip. 

That’s exactly what we got at Caprock Canyon State Park.   

Texas boasts 89 state parks scattered across more than 268,000 square miles. On the cusp of what is now the Texas panhandle, early Mexican travelers exclaimed, “hay sierras debajo de los llanos”. There are mountains below the plains. Here at the edge of the Great Plains a unique landscape lies hidden, the Caprock Escarpment.

Caprock’s Unique Landscape Close at Hand

Our family needed a break. Work, school, and extra-curricular activities are in overdrive during the fall. And between school and work we were all seeing the world through a screen. Essentially, we were missing out on some other basic human needs! Physical exertion, mental well-being, and connection to nature are fundamental to enjoying life and being present.  

I opened my state parks app to make a list of parks that were within a 4 hour or less driving distance. Okay, that may seem far to some of you, but we live in Texas. If you think about it, 4 hours is a perfect amount of driving time. You can leave at 8 am and be there by lunch! Yet it’s far enough that you feel like you are embarking on an adventure!

From our location, the list of parks at that distance was relatively small. Several of the parks on the list we have visited many times. And a few we have only visited once. I am always ready to explore new landscapes, and the images of Caprock Canyon State Park were impressive. Again, using the state park app I was able to read a description of the park, view images, access facilities and amenities, and peruse things to do. I highly recommend downloading a state park app to help you discover what your state has to offer.

Your Own Western Movie Set

According to the interpretive guide, Caprock Canyon SP is situated on over 15,000 acres and has 90 miles of trails to explore. As shown in the relief map above, the park’s steep canyons seem to appear in the midst of the high plains. Indeed, the steep red canyon walls, freely roaming bison, and windswept prairie grasses give you a sense of expansiveness that can only be met in the West.

Bison Tails and Prairie Dog Towns

The Texas State Bison Herd has free range in the park. Be cautious! Bison are not fluffy cows. They are wild animals that may charge on approach. You absolutely will see them on the trail. Give them plenty of space. Read my Trail Etiquette post to learn more about staying safe when sharing the trail with wildlife.

Currently, there are over 200 head of bison living in the park. This is a tiny number considering that 30 to 60 million once inhabited the plains. At Caprock Canyon SP, Texas Parks and Wildlife officials manage the herd to maintain their genetic diversity and contribute to the conservation of this once abundant wild animal.

Bison are vital to the health of plains and prairie ecosystems. They work alongside prairie dogs to disperse seeds, aerate the soil, and create habitat for other native species. Unfortunately, black-tailed prairie dogs were either exterminated or removed for the establishment of ranching operations.

The removal of this important prairie species caused the decrease of native grasses and many other wildlife species that depend on them. In fact, in 2012, 29 black-tailed prairie dogs were reintroduced in the park as part of a habitat restoration project. Today, there are two established prairie dog towns within the park.

Trails for Every Level

Besides walking among the bison and prairie dogs while in Caprock Canyon SP you can walk along miles of trails. An extensive network of trails and spurs allows you to hike as much or as little as you want. For example, the Canyon Rim Spur Trail is a short loop that covers a 1/2 mile with amazing views of the Holmes Creek Canyon. Alternatively, you can hike the entire Canyon Rim Trail which is 3 miles out and back to gain spectacular canyon views and opportunities to delve deep into the canyon.

There are also multi-use and hiking only trails. Caprock is a popular park for horseback riders. You will find many trails challenging but well-maintained. Be prepared and know your limits, Caprock is rugged country. For some great tips check at my Step-by-Step Guide to Planning a Day Hike.

How to Embark, Enjoy, and Explore Caprock Canyon SP

Most state park systems have implemented online reservation systems. Typically, these systems will require you to create a free account. There are loads of benefits to having an account, such as access to day passes, trail permits, and camping reservations. I logged into my Texas State Park account and checked the availability of campsites at Caprock Canyon and using the map selected site 10 at Honey Flat Camping Area.

Honey Flat Camping Area is the largest of six camping areas and the only one with electricity. There is also a bathroom facility with showers. Even better, the campsites are close to the prairie dog town! If you are interested in fishing during your stay, the Lake Theo Camping Area is a walk-in tent camping area nestled next to a small lake. The lake is visited daily by members of the bison herd. The other camping areas are walk-in or primitive sites with composting toilets.

If you are planning on taking one of the longer hikes, such as South Prong, North Prong, or the John Haynes Ridge Trail staying at either South or North Prong Primitive Camping Area will give you a head start. Site fees range from $12 to $22 per night. Whether you are camping in a tent, travel trailer, van, or RV there is a campsite that will accommodate your needs!

State Park Fees

In addition to campsite fees, all visitors pay entrance fees. Entrance fees may vary from park to park. Daily entrance fees rates are $5 per adult 13 and older, and children 12 years old and under are free. There are also different fees for groups if you are camping with a larger number of folks.

However, I highly recommend buying an annual state park pass. I renew my Annual Texas State Park Pass each year. I can use my annual pass to enter any state park without paying entrance fees. The annual pass also waives fees for all guests in the same vehicle. All in all, we paid $0 entrance fees for 4 adults (2 adults and 2 teenagers) for the weekend and $17 for our camp site. State park fees are definitely an affordable way to get more outdoors!

Outdoor Recreation at Caprock

You can recreate at Caprock Canyon SP in many ways. Over 90 miles of trails are open for hiking, biking, and horseback riding. As a first time visitor, I like to start with the Points of Interest. These are locations outlined on the park map and can help you decide how you would like to spend time in the park.

Wildlife Viewing

Since we were camping at Honey Flat we looked for points of interest near the camping area. Our first adventure was setting out to see the prairie dog town. You can see busy prairie dogs foraging, playing, and standing guard near Honey Flat in between the bathroom facilities and the trailhead for the Canyon Rim Trail. Be careful where you step, their burrows dot the pasture creating a complex network of tunnels below the surface. If you stay awhile they begin to sit comfortably on top of the mounds marking the entrance to tunnel. They seem to be just as interested in us as we are with them!

Hiking

After setting up camp we then set out to see Holmes Creek Canyon by taking the Canyon Rim Trail Spur. The trailhead is just on the east side of the prairie dog town. This short trail is a great introduction to the park. After only 1/4 mile, we were rewarded with breathtaking overlooks of the canyon. What’s more, as soon as we rounded the loop we were stopped in our tracks by a grazing group of bison!

We started out early the next day to reach our next point of interest: Fern Cave. Tucked in the arid landscape of the canyons an overhang creates a cave that is dripping with ferns fed by a natural spring. You will need to take one of three routes: South Prong Trail, North Prong Trail, or the John Haynes Ridge Trail. We opted for the North Prong Trail as recommended by the park staff. Due to its length and the steep and rugged section leading up to the cave the trail is rated as moderate. My crew completed the out and back in about 2 1/2 hours. If you choose this route plan on 3 hours and take the appropriate amount of water.

Stargazing

Another type of outdoor recreation which perhaps often gets overlooked is stargazing. After our first adventurous half day, it was time to relax. We already experienced the prairie dog town and went hiking to see Holmes Creek Canyon with a bonus up close and personal encounter with bison. What could be better? It so happens that Caprock Canyon SP is a designated dark sky park.

On the Bortle scale, the park is a Class 2 dark park. The Bortle Scale is a way to describe how well you can see celestial objects with the naked eye. Places are rated as Class 1 to 9. A Class 1 rated area has very little light pollution allowing you to see the Milky Way in all its glory. Caprock is rated Class 2. So, sit back and enjoy the starry show!

State Parks’ are Landscapes with a Purpose

The establishment of a state park system happened alongside the national park system. Both of these systems hinged on the idea that people need wild places. In fact, it is a basic human need. Therefore, providing outdoor recreation in natural places is one of the main stated purposes of state parks.

You might not think that being outdoors is a need. But, consider that within state parks you can hike, swim, climb, bike, and engage in other physical activities. Parks also bring you in close contact with nature. Being in nature has been shown to reduce stress, depression, and anxiety. Further, being in proximity to wilderness increases appreciation for nature and builds awareness of environmental issues. In essence, parks are spared development because they have unique or exceptional natural landscapes and societal value. 

Our trip to Caprock Canyon SP was definitely needed! Next time you are in need of some outdoor therapy consider a state park. Get more outdoors. Embark, Explore, and Enjoy!

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